Well, that’s a first for a Henry Herbert suit. A request for epaulettes on a customer’s suit – probably last seen in the 1970’s. They are fastened to the shoulder by a strap or “passant“, a small strap parallel to the shoulder seam and the button near the collar. This particular customer may prove to be a trend forecaster…who would have thought double breasted suits would make a comeback afterall?
We have had an increasing amount of requests for double breasted suits. GQ magazine have devoted some of their pages to showcasing double-breasted suits too. Indeed, the V-shaped man in the double-breasted suit is making a comeback, adding stylish swagger to city streets and cool tailoring to corporate offices. The double breasted silhouettes and swooping lapels, broadened shoulders and extra chest, are once again making a resurgence.
Double-breasted jackets have their origins in English sportswear and the classic double-breasted jacket originated with the frock coat, worn in the early Victorian era, in the 1820’s and 30’s. Today, the double breasted has made a return to the contemporary collections of the world’s finest tailoring houses.
Most double-breasted suits have two rows of buttons, three on each side. The middle button on the left is usually buttoned, as is the inner button, called the jigger button, which keeps the jacket flaps in line. They are complemented by the rich and conservative fabrics, from the best English and Scottish mills. Now is the time to think of one!
Fabric: Chalk stripe English flannel
Fabric source: Huddersfield, England
Cut: Traditional, Double-breasted
Notes: The classic English double breasted suit, in a wonderful chalk stripe fabric from Huddersfield based mill, Dugdales Bros. This creation, by Henry Herbert Tailors, was made for Lord Herbert (pictured) – no relation to the firm, but, hopefully, a happy customer in his striking and well fitted suit. His choice of a navy chalk stripe cuts a dashing figure against the backdrop of Chelsea harbour in London.
The Royal Wedding! A short piece with Ben Fogle for NBC America looking at the English morning suit, with a quick peep into Henry Herbert Tailors too! This is the clip!
If you are thinking of treating yourself, or someone else, to something from Henry Herbert and want to know what others think of the Henry Herbert service…….Don’t Ask Us! Ask them! Read the independent Google reviews.
“For fine men’s and women’s tailoring head to Henry Herbert on Savile Row for beautiful made-to-measure suits or perfect alterations. The best thing is they deliver your purchases by scooter.” [Read more…]
“Henry Herbert Tailors fit and deliver the suit at your convenience and at your home and office, from their scooters….It’s a novel, first-of-its kind service…..It’s flexible and convenient for customers.” [Read more…]
“This is the first part of three of having a bespoke suit made – the initial consultation, measuring and deciding on style and fabric. At this point you can, within reason, have whatever you want – any fabric, lining, shape, finish and details. The first decision is fabric, this influences everything else.”[Read more…]
(Scroll 3/4 way down page) “Why trudge all the way to Savile Row when you can let Savile Row come to you? Henry Herbert Tailors provides a suit service on a scooter, reversing the Savile Row process. The principle benefits are convenience and cost.” [Read more…]
(Scroll to page 14) “Henry Herbert Tailors are very non traditional – they zip about town on Vespas to meet customers. They get some very peculiar requests – including a magician’s jacket that had all kinds of pulleys and hidden pockets inside it.” [Read more…]
“Interview with Charlie Baker-Collingwood [founder] of Henry Herbert Tailors, London by Nicola Linza and Cristoffer Neljesjö in London, England during December 2010 for Manner of Man magazine” [Read more…]
“Many of Charlie Baker–Collingwood’s clients are proof of this. The proprietor of Henry Herbert Tailors, who zips around London’s West End on two wheel…” [Read more]
“The quality of Henry Herbert’s tailoring is matched only by the quality of the service they provide. I was met at my desk by a Henry Herbert tailor who arrived there by scooter (bang on time). I was measured at my desk and shown swatches. When I eventually got my suit, it looked great and I’ve had so many compliments on it since.”
Mark Hudson, London
“I was intrigued by the Henry Herbert scootering service – it fitted conveniently into the way I work. A tailor promptly arrived at the scheduled time, measured me for my shirts, which arrived several weeks later and which fit excellently. A great service which I would wholeheartedly recommend.“
Steve Norris, former Government Minister
“I got my brilliant wedding suit from Henry Herbert’s recently – I want to thank them for saving my wedding after another tailor let me down at the last minute. I was really impressed with the quality of the suit – the service was great as well, they came to my office to take the order and then delivered back to me just in time for my wedding. They also had great attention to detail to make it looked absolutely perfect. The suit is now definitely my favourite and is much better quality than the other bespoke suits I’ve previously bought. Would definitely recommend them!”
An example of an excellent and very fine cloth from Taylor & Lodge of Huddersfield, England, in a recent Henry Herbert three-piece suit. The secret is, “always keep the style simple and the cloth special.”