The Double-Breasted: The comeback kid?

Double Breasted

We have had an increasing amount of requests for double breasted suits. GQ magazine have devoted some of their pages to showcasing double-breasted suits too. Indeed, the V-shaped man in the double-breasted suit is making a comeback, adding stylish swagger to city streets and cool tailoring to corporate offices. The double breasted silhouettes and swooping lapels, broadened shoulders and extra chest, are once again making a resurgence.

Double-breasted jackets have their origins in English sportswear and the classic double-breasted jacket originated with the frock coat, worn in the early Victorian era, in the 1820′s and 30′s. Today, the double breasted has made a return to the contemporary collections of the world’s finest tailoring houses.

Most double-breasted suits have two rows of buttons, three on each side. The middle button on the left is usually buttoned, as is the inner button, called the jigger button, which keeps the jacket flaps in line. They are complemented by the rich and conservative fabrics, from the best English and Scottish mills. Now is the time to think of one!


The Cowboy Cut – Boot Length Trousers!

Henry Herbert Tailors Bespoke Suits Tailored Suits The Cowboy Cut   Boot Length Trousers!A very unusal but special suit for a young hotelier in London. The bespoke tailored suit is made from a fine English wool from Holland & Sherry. As you may notice the suit jacket is finely cut and sits with a pair of ‘boot cut’ trousers. This is a special customer who knows exactly what he wants and is testament to the fact that with bespoke there are no rules left any more, merely preferences.

Suitably smart

MattWillis 9361 Suitably smartA photograph of a young man in his bespoke shirt, made for him by Henry Herbert Tailors. A slim fitting shirt, complemented by a great looking tie, in a fine Egyptian cotton.

Henry Herbert makes a suit for Lord Herbert!

LordHerbertAmend Henry Herbert makes a suit for Lord Herbert!The classic English double breasted suit, in a wonderful chalk stripe fabric from Huddersfield based mill, Dugdales Bros. This creation, by Henry Herbert Tailors, was made for Lord Herbert (pictured) – no relation to the firm, but, hopefully, a happy customer in his striking and well fitted suit. His choice of a navy chalk stripe cuts a dashing figure against the backdrop of Chelsea harbour in London.

Ten Questions to Ask You & Your Tailor

Having a bespoke suit or bespoke shirt made can be an intimidating experience. Hopefully these ten tips from Henry Herbert Tailors will guide you through the minefield:

1. Visit as many tailors as you like. It is a relationship that must be comfortable for you.

2. Familiarise yourself with the different styles and choices available to you.

3. Be advised by a tailor, not pressured.

4. Have an idea of the colour and the cloth you are looking for. It will narrow down the vast selection available to you.

5. It is your bespoke suit (or shirt). Remember there are no wrong answers, merely preferences.

6. A good tailor will comfort you, not condescend you.

7. Expect at least a couple of fittings and at least as many months to perfect your first order.

8. All good suits and shirts should be tailored in England using local cloths.

9. Find the budget that is right for you and make sure final prices are clearly given to you (it is normal for bespoke tailors not to include VAT in their final prices).

10. Enjoy wearing it – every handmade suit and shirt will have its own characteristics.

To book your Henry Herbert Tailor, click here.

Beat the blues, choose blue!

matthew waite 28 Beat the blues, choose blue!

A terrific looking blue wool suit made by Henry Herbert Tailors, accompanied by smartly polished shoes. A great example of how striking this colour fabric can look in a well cut suit. You can also see a video of a blue Henry Herbert suit here. I am very grateful to the young lady who took this photograph, Petra Exton.

Video: Bespoke Blue Suit by Henry Herbert Tailors

A short video by Henry Herbert Tailors to show the delights of a blue suit. Blue wool is an acquired taste, but it is a striking colour to choose, which can be worn professionally and socially, attracting equally strong compliments in both walks of life.  Henry Herbert makes each tailored suit using the finest English & Scottish wools….the wool in this video is from an English mill called Brook Taverner.

The Tailor’s Table – Revealed!

TailorsTable The Tailors Table   Revealed!What’s on a tailor’s table?! Pictured is Charlie – the creator of Henry Herbert Tailors – at his Savile Row desk. It is not the tidiest desk in the world, but it has all the tools he needs to go through an order with each customer – tape measures, pins, chalk, books (and books) of fabrics and an order form. Henry Herbert is a scootering tailor service, using our fleet of Piaggio scooters to meet customers wherever and whenever is good for them. Or they can meet us, by appointment on Savile Row. To Book a Tailor, just click here.

Linen Ahoy!

Bespoke Savile Row Tailored British Linen Suit

A glorious looking blue linen suit from Harrisons of Edinburgh, which Henry Herbert made for a magazine editor (and former Royal Navy officer) in London. You can just see a flash of the special lining that he chose too. He also requested brace buttons, which sit discreetly inside the trouser waistband, together with a fishtail finish to the rear of the trousers. A great looking suit which sits well on his tall frame.

Time for a Three-Piece Suit

Three Piece Suit WaistcoatBespoke Wedding Waistcoat

An example of an excellent and very fine cloth from Taylor & Lodge of Huddersfield, England, in a recent Henry Herbert three-piece suit. The customer chose a simple and elegant style to the suit – a two button single breasted jacket, with a straight pocket either side. The suit is enhanced hugely by:

1. Excellent choice of cloth,

2. Savile Row tapering to the sides of the jacket, and

3. A very simple coat style complemented by a waistcoat.

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