‘Serge le Temoin de Playboy’ & Co. Sartorial elegance in Congo

1 Serge le Temoin de Playboy & Co. Sartorial elegance in Congo

2 Serge le Temoin de Playboy & Co. Sartorial elegance in Congo

I have mentioned this fascinating story before, but it is so gripping, it is worth talking about it again! SAPE stands for “Societe des Ambianceurs et Personnes Elegantes” which translates as the “society of atmosphere setters and elegant people“. Its members put fashion above all the other issues a developing country like Congo is facing right now.

The origins of La SAPE can be traced back to when the first French colonists arrived. They brought with them their famous fashion sense and inspired the locals who regarded the white man as far more elegant and educated than they were. In 1922 Andre Bernard Matsoua was the first local who traveled to Paris and came back dressed as a true French gentleman.

Since then, members of “La Societe des Ambianceurs et Personnes Elegantes” have been trying to get their hands on the newest, most expensive pieces of designer clothes that appear in Europe. There are some luxury shops in Brazzaville and Kinshasa, but most “sapeurs” prefer to get them directly from the Old Continent. This is actually every member’s dream, to travel to Paris and get their hands on killer wardrobes at the source.

Sapeurs spend thousands of dollars on suits, shirts, shoes and accessories, but this doesn’t mean they’re rich. In a country where the average salary is somewhere around $300/month, most of these guys don’t even have a job. Most of them lend their clothes for a living (renting a designer suit costs about $25/day), while those who travel to Europe bring the latest designer labels and sell them for a small profit.

All members of La SAPE have unique styles and crazy names: ‘Parfait le Bodeur‘, ‘Serge le Temoin de Playboy‘, ‘Baleine Sarkozy‘ or ‘Christian Dior‘. They live for fashion and feed off the attention they get when parading on the dusty streets of Brazzaville. The photos below are part of Francesco Giusti‘s La SAPE Collection, which recently won him an award for photography. They really do capture the charm of these special sapeurs. There is a beauitfully presenetd musical photo montage which tells the story too.

3 Serge le Temoin de Playboy & Co. Sartorial elegance in Congo

4 Serge le Temoin de Playboy & Co. Sartorial elegance in Congo

5 Serge le Temoin de Playboy & Co. Sartorial elegance in Congo

6 Serge le Temoin de Playboy & Co. Sartorial elegance in Congo

7 Serge le Temoin de Playboy & Co. Sartorial elegance in Congo

9 Serge le Temoin de Playboy & Co. Sartorial elegance in Congo

Look Twice!

Look Twice Look Twice!

The most extraordinarily fabric yet that Henry Herbert has been involved with! At first glance, it looks like a normal pin stripe suit fabric, the epitome of the classic, English City suit. But look twice and you will actually find the pin stripe is not a stripe at all – it is the customer’s initials woven so finely, in perfectly symmetrical lines, that they appear as the classic English pin stripe. An extraordinarily personal detail for the customer.

The Double-Breasted: The comeback kid?

Double Breasted

We have had an increasing amount of requests for double breasted suits. GQ magazine have devoted some of their pages to showcasing double-breasted suits too. Indeed, the V-shaped man in the double-breasted suit is making a comeback, adding stylish swagger to city streets and cool tailoring to corporate offices. The double breasted silhouettes and swooping lapels, broadened shoulders and extra chest, are once again making a resurgence.

Double-breasted jackets have their origins in English sportswear and the classic double-breasted jacket originated with the frock coat, worn in the early Victorian era, in the 1820′s and 30′s. Today, the double breasted has made a return to the contemporary collections of the world’s finest tailoring houses.

Most double-breasted suits have two rows of buttons, three on each side. The middle button on the left is usually buttoned, as is the inner button, called the jigger button, which keeps the jacket flaps in line. They are complemented by the rich and conservative fabrics, from the best English and Scottish mills. Now is the time to think of one!


The Cowboy Cut – Boot Length Trousers!

Henry Herbert Tailors Bespoke Suits Tailored Suits The Cowboy Cut   Boot Length Trousers!A very unusal but special suit for a young hotelier in London. The bespoke tailored suit is made from a fine English wool from Holland & Sherry. As you may notice the suit jacket is finely cut and sits with a pair of ‘boot cut’ trousers. This is a special customer who knows exactly what he wants and is testament to the fact that with bespoke there are no rules left any more, merely preferences.

A model shirt by bespoke shirtmakers Henry Herbert

Bespoke Savile Row Shirt

A great looking bespoke English shirt in a glorious Sea Island cotton by Henry Herbrt Tailors and modelled for us by a good looking chap. We use only the finest shirting cottons from around the world and every shirt we make is handmade.

Suitably smart

MattWillis 9361 Suitably smartA photograph of a young man in his bespoke shirt, made for him by Henry Herbert Tailors. A slim fitting shirt, complemented by a great looking tie, in a fine Egyptian cotton.

Henry Herbert rings the wedding bells

Bespoke Wedding Suit

We were privileged to be invited to make the shirt, waistcoat and trousers for this young gentleman for his wedding day. He selected a crisp white shirt, with the fabric from Acorn Fabrics in Lancashire, a double breasted waistcoat, using a luxurious Scottish cotton from Harrisons of Edinburgh and a pinstriped pair of trousers (with a subtle orange tinge to the stripes). The combination looks great and his bride seems happy with the result!

Glorious Seersucker and All That Jazz

DSC 07121 Glorious Seersucker and All That Jazz

Henry Herbert was extremely privileged to make the above suit: privileged on two counts in fact. The first, because the suit was created for the wedding of Ray Goold (above), a wonderful and talented musician. Ray plays with the Solent City Jazzmen in Southampton. The second, because Ray asked for an extremely rare, but special, fabric for his suit – Seersucker. We chose a seersucker fabric from Holland & Sherry. Unfortunately, the photograph may not do it justice, looking at it on a computer, as seersucker fabric is woven in such a way that it gives a glorious looking wrinkled appearance in places and is great, either as as suit or stand alone trousers or jacket.

A ‘Bella’ Henry Herbert Wedding suit

Bespoke Suit Tailored Suit Savile Row Suit Wedding Suit2 A Bella Henry Herbert Wedding suit A well cut ‘hour glass finished’ suit in a glorious blue fabric which Henry Herbert Tailors made for a keen yachtsman for his wedding in Italy…complete with fabulous weather and bride!

Beat the blues, choose blue!

matthew waite 28 Beat the blues, choose blue!

A terrific looking blue wool suit made by Henry Herbert Tailors, accompanied by smartly polished shoes. A great example of how striking this colour fabric can look in a well cut suit. You can also see a video of a blue Henry Herbert suit here. I am very grateful to the young lady who took this photograph, Petra Exton.

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