The Double-Breasted: The comeback kid?

Double Breasted

We have had an increasing amount of requests for double breasted suits. GQ magazine have devoted some of their pages to showcasing double-breasted suits too. Indeed, the V-shaped man in the double-breasted suit is making a comeback, adding stylish swagger to city streets and cool tailoring to corporate offices. The double breasted silhouettes and swooping lapels, broadened shoulders and extra chest, are once again making a resurgence.

Double-breasted jackets have their origins in English sportswear and the classic double-breasted jacket originated with the frock coat, worn in the early Victorian era, in the 1820’s and 30’s. Today, the double breasted has made a return to the contemporary collections of the world’s finest tailoring houses.

Most double-breasted suits have two rows of buttons, three on each side. The middle button on the left is usually buttoned, as is the inner button, called the jigger button, which keeps the jacket flaps in line. They are complemented by the rich and conservative fabrics, from the best English and Scottish mills. Now is the time to think of one!


Bespoke Weekend Shirts

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Relaxed and recreational

Tailor’s Notes
We also make bespoke weekend shirts. With a more relaxed fit and softer fabrics, the shirts will fall across your body with a more gentle positioning. The shirt shown opposite is made from a glorious Sea Island cotton.

The Construction
To make your shirt a perfect fit, our expert tailors will take over a dozen upper body measurements. It will match the precise contours of your shoulders, your preference for cuffs & collars, as well as your habits of watch wearing. Our shirts take between four to five weeks to make.

Details
Every Henry Herbert shirt comes with removable brass collar bones, mother of pearl buttons and each one is finished with the finest single stitching. Our shirts start at £140.

Find out how to order a shirt

A suitably smart Henry Herbert bespoke shirt

Fabric: Egyptian cotton

Cut: Slim

Occassion: Professional

A young man in his bespoke shirt, made for him by Henry Herbert Tailors. A slim fitting shirt, complemented by a great looking tie, in a fine Egyptian cotton.

Henry Herbert makes a suit for Lord Herbert!

Fabric:  Chalk stripe English flannel

Fabric source:  Huddersfield, England

Cut: Traditional, Double-breasted

Notes: The classic English double breasted suit, in a wonderful chalk stripe fabric from Huddersfield based mill, Dugdales Bros. This creation, by Henry Herbert Tailors, was made for Lord Herbert (pictured) – no relation to the firm, but, hopefully, a happy customer in his striking and well fitted suit. His choice of a navy chalk stripe cuts a dashing figure against the backdrop of Chelsea harbour in London.

A Sporting Tailor!

Just what is a sporting tailor? This wonderful illustration hopefully gives an introduction, with a great illustrated example of breeches (not plus 2’s, which bellow far less on the thigh) from the German breechesmaker Hermann Scherrer . With Autumn approaching, time to treat yourself to a country shooting suit!

Savile Row Field Day

On 11th October 2010, Savile Row was fenced off and the road taken over by dozens of sheep. The day was intended to launch the Campaign for Wool – an initiative convened by HRH Prince of Wales and designed to highlight the benefits of wool as a textile and to the industry it supports. Wool is an absolutely fascinating fabric – read more about it’s importance here.

How do they measure up?

Three new political leaders displaying three approaches to wearing a suit. David Cameron, leader of the Conservatives, enjoys flared trousers. Nick Clegg, leader of the Liberal Democrats, likes his slanted pockets on his jackets. Ed Miliband, leader of the Labour party, presents polished white shirt cuffs which are (correctly) longer than his suit sleeves. Notably, all three wear single breasted, two button suits – the choice of style for being a political leader.

Autumn is approaching…make a getaway in a three-piece.

When you think of the three-piece suit, you think of the Thomas Crown Affair, or Al Pacino in The Godfather Part II, looking as fierce as any actor ever. You think of high-powered attorneys and CEOs roaming the courtrooms and boardrooms of the 1970s.

The question is: Do you ever think of yourself in one?You might want to start. The three-piece suit no longer suggests you have the corner office (or a tommy gun); it suggests you have style. Of course, it’s not as easy as one two three. You need to know how to wear it and where to wear it. The three piece offers a razor sharp suit. It even has other uses as recently reported by the New York Times. Whatever your use for a three-piece, every well dressed gentleman should have one.

Ermenegildo Zegna: Sharp suit for the City……

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Ermenegildo Zegna Suit

Tailor’s Notes
A Henry Herbert creation for a young City gentleman. The electric blue fabric from Ermenegildo Zegna is complemented by some sparkling, brown shoes and a crisp white shirt. A good looking bespoke suit on a good looking chap by Henry Herbert Tailors!

The Construction
Made with a floating canvass, the suit is British made and cut. As much of the suit as possible is hand tailored. As with every suit we make, unless you choose our Express service, the suit will take 8-9 weeks to make – we have a half way baste fitting and then a forward baste fitting before the suit is finished and delivered.

Details
Fabric from Ermenegildo Zegna, Italy.

Find out how to order a suit

Ten Questions to Ask You & Your Tailor

Having a bespoke suit or bespoke shirt made can be an intimidating experience. Hopefully these ten tips from Henry Herbert Tailors will guide you through the minefield:

1. Visit as many tailors as you like. It is a relationship that must be comfortable for you.

2. Familiarise yourself with the different styles and choices available to you.

3. Be advised by a tailor, not pressured.

4. Have an idea of the colour and the cloth you are looking for. It will narrow down the vast selection available to you.

5. It is your bespoke suit (or shirt). Remember there are no wrong answers, merely preferences.

6. A good tailor will comfort you, not condescend you.

7. Expect at least a couple of fittings and at least as many months to perfect your first order.

8. All good suits and shirts should be tailored in England using local cloths.

9. Find the budget that is right for you and make sure final prices are clearly given to you (it is normal for bespoke tailors not to include VAT in their final prices).

10. Enjoy wearing it – every handmade suit and shirt will have its own characteristics.

To book your Henry Herbert Tailor, click here.