Fabric: Egyptian cotton
A young man in his bespoke shirt, made for him by Henry Herbert Tailors. A slim fitting shirt, complemented by a great looking tie, in a fine Egyptian cotton.
Fabric: Chalk stripe English flannel
Fabric source: Huddersfield, England
Cut: Traditional, Double-breasted
Notes: The classic English double breasted suit, in a wonderful chalk stripe fabric from Huddersfield based mill, Dugdales Bros. This creation, by Henry Herbert Tailors, was made for Lord Herbert (pictured) – no relation to the firm, but, hopefully, a happy customer in his striking and well fitted suit. His choice of a navy chalk stripe cuts a dashing figure against the backdrop of Chelsea harbour in London.
Just what is a sporting tailor? This wonderful illustration hopefully gives an introduction, with a great illustrated example of breeches (not plus 2’s, which bellow far less on the thigh) from the German breechesmaker Hermann Scherrer . With Autumn approaching, time to treat yourself to a country shooting suit!
On 11th October 2010, Savile Row was fenced off and the road taken over by dozens of sheep. The day was intended to launch the Campaign for Wool – an initiative convened by HRH Prince of Wales and designed to highlight the benefits of wool as a textile and to the industry it supports. Wool is an absolutely fascinating fabric – read more about it’s importance here.
Three new political leaders displaying three approaches to wearing a suit. David Cameron, leader of the Conservatives, enjoys flared trousers. Nick Clegg, leader of the Liberal Democrats, likes his slanted pockets on his jackets. Ed Miliband, leader of the Labour party, presents polished white shirt cuffs which are (correctly) longer than his suit sleeves. Notably, all three wear single breasted, two button suits – the choice of style for being a political leader.
We were privileged to be invited to make the shirt, waistcoat and trousers for this young gentleman for his wedding day. He selected a crisp white shirt, with the fabric from Acorn Fabrics in Lancashire, a double breasted waistcoat, using a luxurious Scottish cotton from Harrisons of Edinburgh and a pinstriped pair of trousers (with a subtle orange tinge to the stripes). The combination looks great and his bride seems happy with the result!
|When you think of the three-piece suit, you think of the Thomas Crown Affair, or Al Pacino in The Godfather Part II, looking as fierce as any actor ever. You think of high-powered attorneys and CEOs roaming the courtrooms and boardrooms of the 1970s.
The question is: Do you ever think of yourself in one?You might want to start. The three-piece suit no longer suggests you have the corner office (or a tommy gun); it suggests you have style. Of course, it’s not as easy as one two three. You need to know how to wear it and where to wear it. The three piece offers a razor sharp suit. It even has other uses as recently reported by the New York Times. Whatever your use for a three-piece, every well dressed gentleman should have one.
A short video we have put together offering a glimpse of the world famous golden mile of tailoring – Savile Row.
Having a bespoke suit or bespoke shirt made can be an intimidating experience. Hopefully these ten tips from Henry Herbert Tailors will guide you through the minefield:
1. Visit as many tailors as you like. It is a relationship that must be comfortable for you.
2. Familiarise yourself with the different styles and choices available to you.
3. Be advised by a tailor, not pressured.
4. Have an idea of the colour and the cloth you are looking for. It will narrow down the vast selection available to you.
5. It is your bespoke suit (or shirt). Remember there are no wrong answers, merely preferences.
6. A good tailor will comfort you, not condescend you.
7. Expect at least a couple of fittings and at least as many months to perfect your first order.
8. All good suits and shirts should be tailored in England using local cloths.
9. Find the budget that is right for you and make sure final prices are clearly given to you (it is normal for bespoke tailors not to include VAT in their final prices).
10. Enjoy wearing it – every handmade suit and shirt will have its own characteristics.
To book your Henry Herbert Tailor, click here.
Henry Herbert was extremely privileged to make the above suit: privileged on two counts in fact. The first, because the suit was created for the wedding of Ray Goold (above), a wonderful and talented musician. Ray plays with the Solent City Jazzmen in Southampton. The second, because Ray asked for an extremely rare, but special, fabric for his suit – Seersucker. We chose a seersucker fabric from Holland & Sherry. Unfortunately, the photograph may not do it justice, looking at it on a computer, as seersucker fabric is woven in such a way that it gives a glorious texture and is great, either as as suit or stand alone trousers or jacket. Richard Green for The Big Black Book (Illustration)
Fabric source: Peebles, Scotland
Cut: Slim, Single breasted
Notes: A terrific looking blue wool suit made by Henry Herbert Tailors, accompanied by smartly polished shoes. A great example of how striking this colour fabric can look in a well cut suit. You can also see a video of a blue Henry Herbert suit here.
Photography credit: Petra Exton