Tag Archives: Savile Row Suits

Navy birdseye suit

 

Navy birdseye suit

Birdseye suit

Navy birdseye is perhaps the ultimate cloth for a timeless and all season suit. Don’t just take our word for it, ask James Bond. A navy birdseye suit was the clothing of choice for Pierce Brosnan in Goldeneye back in 1995, and just like James Bond the cloth and the suit proved timeless, indestructible, and stylish to the end.

Birds eye is an unusual and special pattern. From a distance it appears solid but up close it creates a subtle surface full of depth without being distracting. It has more depth and a far richer effect than a solid worsted especially when you choose a dark grey or a navy fabric.

It’s a mature, traditional fabric with a traditional but timeless pattern of small circles. Bird’s Eye has a tiny dot in the centre that’s hard to see from a distance. The pattern, like the name suggests, resembles a bird’s eye and is characterised by the small pupil-like centre dot. Many people confuse the birds eye pattern with nailhead, but there is a subtle difference that definitely adds texture to plain colours – birdseye cloth has distinctive round larger dots on a diagonal layout. A navy birdseye suit like the one that Pierce Brosnan wore – is unbelievably stylish, though you hardly every see it worn anywhere these days because it seems to have fallen out of fashion with the younger crowd. Recently though it seems to be making something of a welcome comeback as men search for something traditional but slightly and subtly different.

For me navy birdseye is the ultimate traditional cloth for a timeless, all-season suit that is definitely contemporary enough to be worn today and is also durable for regular office wear. When you see someone wearing a well-cut navy birdseye suit you know that he is seasoned. Personally I love the birdseye weave. To me it gives you a mature look that is both perfect for every day wear and durable enough for a hard day in the office. The navy birdseye is one of my favourite patterns for a suit because it creates a subtle surface interest that has a great depth to it without being too distracting. It’s also a very welcome variation from the usual plainer suit cloths helping you subtly stand out from the crowd without people quite knowing why.

Will a navy birdseye suit you and your style? Of course it will.

Glorious Herringbone in a Henry Herbert suit

Bespoke Herringbone SuitHerringbone Suit

An excellent example of a herringbone fabric….but very difficult to photograph too! The fabric is from Hield Mills, in Huddersfield and is a glorious blue. This suit is in its baste stage for one of our customers who works for a large international financial group and who, interestingly, told us that the Chinese save 50% of all of their income. It puts the British to shame. Unfortunately, the photograph may not do the pattern justice, but it will turn out to be a very striking and very sharp suit.

Wow – what a suit!

Special Bespoke SuitBespoek Suit with Bespoke Trim

An extremely rare breed of suit – brown. It is made even more rare by the special velvet trim collar and made even more special by the very difficult sewing surround of the last cuff button! (The colour matches the lining). This was an incredibly difficult three-piece suit, which took Henry Herbert 37.5 hours of tailoring to complete, but well worth the toil. The fabric is a splendid Super 100’s wool from Holland & Sherry.

Wow – what a waistcoat!

Bespoke Waistcoat

Bespoke Waistcoat with Bespoke Buttonhole

A special brown waistcoat, made even more special by the very difficult sewing surround of the last button! (The colour matches the lining). This was part of an incredibly difficult three-piece suit that took Henry Herbert 37.5 hours of tailoring to complete, but well worth the toil. The fabric is a splendid Super 100’s wool from Holland & Sherry.

An Electric Blue Suit for a Henry Herbert Customer

Bespoke Baste Suit Fitting

A Henry Herbert Tailors work in progress: a brave and very striking fabric for a suit we are making for the Managing Director of a large media firm. The fabric is from Bateman Ogden, a Yorkshire based mill who are so old-school they don’t even have a website. The colour looks fabulous and will serve as a great suit for all occasions, professional and special.

Henry Herbert Suit in Holland & Sherry Fabric

Suit 3Suit2

A great looking Holland & Sherry fabric in a tailored suit Henry Herbert has just made for a young man from J.P. Morgan. The pictured suit is at its first fitting stage, or what is also known as a baste fitting. This is followed, a few weeks later, by a second fitting , or what is sometimes called a forward fitting. And a little while after that, depending on any necessary alterations, the suit will be completed after a third fitting, or what is known as a finish-bar-finish. This is all part of the bespoke suit making process. Henry Herbert Tailors cuts, makes and finishes every single suit in England.

Tailor made waistcoat in Taylor & Lodge fabric

Bespoke Wedding Waistcoat

An example of an excellent and very fine cloth from Taylor & Lodge of Huddersfield, England, in a recent Henry Herbert three-piece suit. The secret is, “always keep the style simple and the cloth special.”

Henry Herbert use the most luxurious fabrics

Holland and Sherry

Henry Herbert Tailors use the most luxurious wools in our suits and the smoothest cottons in our tailored shirts. We visit customers whenever and wherever is good for them, with our Savile Row by Scooter service. However, for those customers which prefer to meet on Savile Row, we meet customers by appointment at the Holland & Sherry showrooms. The photograph above (taken by the excellent photographer Greg Funnell for Henry Herbert) is a glimpse into one of the many cupboards of fabrics they house there. If you ever have a special or unusual fabric request, the chances are extremely high that they will have it. To have a Henry Herbert Tailors visit you, or if you wish to visit us simply call 020 7837 1452, or book a tailor here.

Gentlemen of Bacongo

Gentlemen of Bacongo

A small suburb of Brazzaville in Congo has become an unlikely style capital, thanks to its dedicated followers of foppish fashion. Dressed to the nines in bowler hats and tailored suits, a group of cigar-wielding ‘sapeurs’ have been strutting their stuff through the shanty town – and on to the pages of a glossy new book, Gentlemen of Bacongo, by Italian photographer Daniele Tamagni. Le Sapeurs, as they’re called, wear pink suits and D&G belts while living in the slums. Whether it be spectacles or bow tie accessories are very important for the sapeur, setting him apart from the less sartorially savvy crowd.

The Great Blue Sports Jacket with an Open Cream Shirt

Bespoke Savile Row Suit & Sports Jackets

A great blue jacket, designed with cloth from Dugdale Bros, complemented by a crisp shirt, using shirting cloth from Acorn Fabrics.  Although the jacket is only at its baste fitting stage, we can already see emerging the elegant effect that such a combination of colour, cut and style can offer.

Bespoke Helmets & Bespoke Suits!

Bespoke Helmets

A little extra accessory we have added to the Henry Herbert scootering service. We have marked all of the helmets with luminous wording describing what we do. The lettering was done by the super friendly and very professional Neon & Sighmakers in east London.

Our professional bespoke suits deliverers and tailors assistants will surely hit the streets with finesse.