The three piece suit is a fabulous, but intricate creation. You may imagine a variety of people wearing them in a a vrierty of different environments – but can you imagine yourself in one? Perhaps you should start! A well cut three piece suit is as comfortable in the city today as it is in the country and every well dressed gentleman should have one. This short video by Henry Herbert Tailors shows you one of our carefully crafted three piece suits, using a Tweed fabric from an English mill.
Fabric: Harris Tweed
Cut: Slim, Two button
Notes: A Henry Herbert suit, made with the mystical Harris Tweed. A finely cut suit that looks striking on the young man wearing it – Marcus Jaye, creative director of The Chic Geek. The remarkable Harris Tweed is the only fabric in the world that is governed by its very own Act of Parliament 1993: “Handwoven by the islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides, finished in the Outer Hebrides, and made from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides.” The Act ensures that all cloth certified with the Harris Tweed Orb complies with the definition in the Act, and is genuine.
Photography credit: Petra Exton
Fabric: Pinstripe flannel
Fabric source: Huddersfield, England
Cut: Traditional, Single breasted
Notes: An excellent example of a bespoke pinstripe suit, which remains as popular (and striking) as ever. This creation by Henry Herbert Tailors was made as a single breasted, two button suit with a pure English wool from Duffin & Peace in Huddersfield – believe it or not, there are still some English mills left.
The V-shaped, double breasted, silhouette suit has made a resurgence. The finely cut peak lapels and wrap over jacket, finished with sharp looking trousers, is making a comeback on to city streets. This is a short video of a bespoke double-breasted suit made by Henry Herbert Tailors.
A short video by Henry Herbert Tailors to show the delights of a blue suit. Blue wool is an acquired taste, but it is a striking colour to choose, which can be worn professionally and socially, attracting equally strong compliments in both walks of life. Henry Herbert makes each tailored suit using the finest English & Scottish wools…the wool in this video is from an English mill called Brook Taverner.
Fabric source: Edinburgh, Scotland
Cut: Slim, Single breasted, Two Button
Occasion: Everyday, professional
Notes: A glorious looking blue linen suit from Harrisons of Edinburgh, which Henry Herbert made for a magazine editor (and former Royal Navy officer) in London. Linen is an excellent choice for staying cool whilst looking sharp in the warmer months. You can just see a flash of the special lining that he chose too. He also requested brace buttons, which sit discreetly inside the trouser waistband, together with a fishtail finish to the rear of the trousers. A great looking suit which sits well on his tall frame.
An example of an excellent and very fine cloth from Taylor & Lodge of Huddersfield, England, in a recent Henry Herbert three-piece suit. The customer chose a simple and elegant style to the suit – a two button single breasted jacket, with a straight pocket either side. The suit is enhanced hugely by:
1. Excellent choice of cloth,
2. Savile Row tapering to the sides of the jacket, and
3. A very simple coat style complemented by a waistcoat.
There is always a question about what is the best fabric to choose for a suit. The first thing you should check for is the purity of the fabric: make sure there are no nasty man man fibres in there such as polyester. But which wool should you choose: woolen or worsted? As a rough rule of thumb, woolens can be softer and worsted sharper. The below offers a more technical glimpse into the world of woollens and worsted fabric which is hopefully useful when making the dive into bespoke suit making!
Woolens are spun from short fibres
Wortsed is spun from long fibres
Woolens are spun from coarse fibres
Wortsed is spun from fine fibres
Woolen fibres are washed and carded
Wortsed fibres are washed and combed
Woolens have a medium twists
Wortsed have a high twist
Woolens are bulky
Wortsed is smooth
Woolens tends to be heavier weight
Wortsed tends to be lighter weight
Fabric: English wool
Fabric source: West Yorkshire, England
Cut: Elegant, Three Piece, Single Breasted
Notes: A great looking Henry Herbert suit modelled extremely well by its customer, Mr Tom Duxberry. The fabric is from Bateman & Ogden in West Yorkshire and sits sharply on top of the single button waistcoat. Tom is owner and chef of the lovely Marneys Village Inn, in Weston Green, Surrey.
How do we even begin to start describing this?! Well, perhaps most importantly, it was made for a great guy called Dave Philipps who is generously sporting the DJ we made for him in this photograph. After going through the initial order with Dave, he gave us some of his home farmed eggs. I would challenge anyone to compare a true organic egg to a supermarket egg – you will never want to choose the latter again. Dave wanted a special Dinner Suit for his stay at the wonderful Burgh Island hotel. He needed it in a hurry so we offered him Henry Herbert’s Express service (we charge slightly more to have a suit ready twice as quickly). Dave chose three different fabrics – a Paisley lining from Lear Browne & Dunsford in Exeter, the wool for the suit from Hield in Huddersfield and a stunning velvet trim for the top collar from Holland & Sherry, on Savile Row. You can imagine the demands in synchronising the delivery of all three different fabrics from three different mills, for an already demanding time delivery for the suit. To add to everything, Dave chose a top collar lining, which is an incredibly intricate piece of tailoring, but looks stunning on a Dinner Jacket. And, in between it all, we still managed to squeeze in a baste fitting! A very busy time making a very special suit for a very special place for a very happy (and special) customer. Phew!!
An extremely rare breed of suit – brown. It is made even more rare by the special velvet trim collar and made even more special by the very difficult sewing surround of the last cuff button! (The colour matches the lining). This was an incredibly difficult three-piece suit, which took Henry Herbert 37.5 hours of tailoring to complete, but well worth the toil. The fabric is a splendid Super 100’s wool from Holland & Sherry.