Tag Archives: Sports Jacket

He’s got the Blues….

A blue jacket is born

By Charlie. Tuesday 21st May 2019.

It has been a busy few weeks at Henry Herbert Tailors. One of our Apprentices, Lucy, is studying at Newham College. She spends three days a week with us, shadowing one of our Master Tailors and taking guidance from him for works that he asks her to complete. She wanted to buy her first pair of cutting shears and she asked us which would be most suitable for her. With shears, the sky is the limit when it comes to how much you want to spend and so we advised her to spend little and try a 12″ pair and see how she goes. In fact, we treated her to a new pair and hopefully, one day she will come along and tell us what her experience of the shears are and how they might be improved. Our main advice, from Francesco, one of our Master Tailors – was “go heavy!” And from Abdul, our other Master Tailor, “go easy” – i.e. ones that won’t ruin your thumb when holding them. We will see.

AMONGST all of this, we have been making a full bespoke blue herringbone wool jacket for a customer. The customer in fact lives in China and comes back occasionally when he can for the fittings. This is the story of his jacket, over a few weeks.

It is always handy to have a French curve and a few other tools at hand when starting out.

And the trimmings required – in the picture below the collar canvass and the body canvass from Bernstein & Banleys.

Once everything was prepared, a paper pattern was made – this is called ‘striking’.

 

Once the pattern was made, the pattern could be cut – below is a front body panel and a sleeve.

We then use some old fashioned weights to put the pattern on top of the fabric, to keep everything in place.

And you can see things taking shape….

The different parts of the jacket can then be cut.

 

Once the pattern has been transferred to the fabric, it can then be ‘basted’ together using basting cotton.

Thereby begins the very first pressing stage. We used a 5kg pressing iron. We would love to find something a bit heavier, but they are hard to find.

And below is the first part of the jacket coming together.

Several weeks later, we had the forward and last fitting below. I will make another post about these stages at a later date as it is a story in itself.

And straight away, we were on to starting the process all over again – this time with a blue cotton fabric from Loro Piana.

As always, if you have any questions or thoughts, just mention them below or email them to me at charlie@henryherbert.com.

 

 

 

Fit for a Prince – the Prince of Wales sports jacket

Images & Video

Bespoke Blue Sports Jacket

Tailor’s Notes
A sports jacket isn’t a suit, so don’t treat it like one. A plaid shirt, purple sweater, anything from khakis to jeans—it all works. If you’re uncertain, compose the outfit on your bed until you get it right. If you’re looking for understated elegance, pare things down with black, silver, or mirrored buttons. You can take this jacket from the office to dinner and then to the after-hours bar without changing a thing.

The Construction
Made with a canvass, the jacket is made and cut in England. As much of the jacket as possible is hand tailored. As with every jacket we make, unless you choose our Express service, the jacket will take 8-9 weeks to make – we have a half way baste fitting and then a forward baste fitting before the jacket is finished and delivered.

Details
The cloth was from Holland & Sherry and the lining from Dugdales in Huddersfield. The cloth is 100% wool with working buttons and working cuffs.

Find out how to order a jacket

A Sporting Tailor!

Just what is a sporting tailor? This wonderful illustration hopefully gives an introduction, with a great illustrated example of breeches (not plus 2’s, which bellow far less on the thigh) from the German breechesmaker Hermann Scherrer . With Autumn approaching, time to treat yourself to a country shooting suit!

Video: Just what makes a good sports jacket?

The sports jacket is an essential garment for every wardrobe. It can be made from a variety of different fabrics, including linen, silk, cotton, mohair and wool. They all offer their own individual merits, but a well cut, bespoke linen sports jacket can look super sharp. A common concern is that linen can crease easily – as long as you look after the linen jacket, it will look after you. This is a short video of a bespoke sports jacket made by Henry Herbert Tailors.

Spectacular Scottish Linen Jacket

Bespoke Linen Jacket Bespoke Linen Jacket Lining

This is a great example of how linen can work wonderfully well as weekend and casual sports jackets. This is a linen jacket that Henry Herbert made for a gentleman in the military – hence, the reason he is camera shy and wearing the dark glasses. The linen is spectacularly complemented by the lining – great looking Bengal stripe. Both the linen and the lining are from Harrisions of Edinburgh.

The Great Blue Sports Jacket with an Open Cream Shirt

Bespoke Savile Row Suit & Sports Jackets

A great blue jacket, designed with cloth from Dugdale Bros, complemented by a crisp shirt, using shirting cloth from Acorn Fabrics.  Although the jacket is only at its baste fitting stage, we can already see emerging the elegant effect that such a combination of colour, cut and style can offer.