Tag Archives: fabric

Spring into Summer – Summer Suits

Summer Suit fabrics to keep you cool:  lightweight wools, silks, mohair, cottons and linens. Irish linen is considered the best and the least likely to crease. All offer the opportunity to have a very sharply cut bespoke suit that will keep you cool, and smart, in the summer. This photograph is a fabulous photograph taken by The Sartorialist. The Image (C) – The Sartorialist.

 

Country Tweed for the City….

Fabric: Lightweight tweed.

Fabric source: Edinburgh, Scotland.

Cut: Slim, Single Breasted, with double breasted waistcoat.

Occasion: City to country to weddings!

Notes: This stylish young gentleman, who divides his time between the Cotswolds and London needed a lightweight tweed from Holland & Sherry which would work well in both environments.  This suit is all about versatility and juxtaposing the city with the country. The suit offers a contemporary cut double breasted waistcoat.

Price: Contact Henry Herbert Tailors.

Liberty Print Shirts

Henry Herbert Tailors offer a bespoke shirt making service with Liberty prints. The service is simple and quick.

1. Buy your fabric from Liberty, either online or from the world famous Liberty store on Regent Street. You will need to buy two metres of fabric.

2. Send the fabric to Henry Herbert Tailors, quoting your collar size. The address is Henry Herbert Tailors, 156-158 Gray’s Inn Road, London, WC1X 8ED. Please include your full name, address and contact email & telephone number.

3. As soon as we receive the fabric, a Henry Herbert tailor will be in touch to confirm your order. Each shirt is £175 incl. VAT which includes all tailoring and delivery charges. Payment will be taken upon confirmation of order with a Henry Herbert tailor.

4. You will receive your Liberty print shirt three weeks later by special courier service.

5. That’s it! To learn more about Henry Herbert Tailors just visit our About page or please feel free to contact us.

The English Cut Suit

English suit tailor

There is nothing as thrilling as an English cut suit made in England using British cloths. Perfectly fitting, every bespoke suit should be every man’s dream and should do one thing only: make you feel good. The bespoke suit should be accompanied by a bespoke service: an exquisitely cut suit matched by an exemplary service.  meeting the high standards of Savile Row.

Henry Herbert makes a suit for Lord Herbert!

Fabric:  Chalk stripe English flannel

Fabric source:  Huddersfield, England

Cut: Traditional, Double-breasted

Notes: The classic English double breasted suit, in a wonderful chalk stripe fabric from Huddersfield based mill, Dugdales Bros. This creation, by Henry Herbert Tailors, was made for Lord Herbert (pictured) – no relation to the firm, but, hopefully, a happy customer in his striking and well fitted suit. His choice of a navy chalk stripe cuts a dashing figure against the backdrop of Chelsea harbour in London.

Ermenegildo Zegna: Sharp suit for the City……

Images & Video

Ermenegildo Zegna Suit

Tailor’s Notes
A Henry Herbert creation for a young City gentleman. The electric blue fabric from Ermenegildo Zegna is complemented by some sparkling, brown shoes and a crisp white shirt. A good looking bespoke suit on a good looking chap by Henry Herbert Tailors!

The Construction
Made with a floating canvass, the suit is British made and cut. As much of the suit as possible is hand tailored. As with every suit we make, unless you choose our Express service, the suit will take 8-9 weeks to make – we have a half way baste fitting and then a forward baste fitting before the suit is finished and delivered.

Details
Fabric from Ermenegildo Zegna, Italy.

Find out how to order a suit

Glorious Seersucker and All That Jazz

Seersucker Wedding Suit Seersucker The Coolest Cloth

Seersucker Wedding Suit by Henry HerbertTailors

Henry Herbert was extremely privileged to make the above suit: privileged on two counts in fact. The first, because the suit was created for the wedding of Ray Goold (above), a wonderful and talented musician. Ray plays with the Solent City Jazzmen in Southampton. The second, because Ray asked for an extremely rare, but special, fabric for his suit – Seersucker. We chose a seersucker fabric from Holland & Sherry. Unfortunately, the photograph may not do it justice, looking at it on a computer, as seersucker fabric is woven in such a way that it gives a glorious texture and is great, either as as suit or stand alone trousers or jacket. Richard Green for The Big Black Book (Illustration)

Beat the blues, choose blue!

Fabric: English wool

Fabric source: Peebles, Scotland

Cut: Slim, Single breasted

Occasion: Everyday

Notes: A terrific looking blue wool suit made by Henry Herbert Tailors, accompanied by smartly polished shoes. A great example of how striking this colour fabric can look in a well cut suit. You can also see a video of a blue Henry Herbert suit here.

Photography credit: Petra Exton

The pinstripe suit by Henry Herbert Tailors

Fabric:  Pinstripe flannel

Fabric source: Huddersfield, England

Cut: Traditional, Single breasted

Notes: An excellent example of a bespoke pinstripe suit, which remains as popular (and striking) as ever. This creation by Henry Herbert Tailors was made as a single breasted, two button suit with a pure English wool from Duffin & Peace in Huddersfield – believe it or not, there are still some English mills left.

Linen Ahoy!

Bespoke Savile Row Tailored British Linen Suit

Fabric: Linen

Fabric source:  Edinburgh, Scotland

Cut: Slim, Single breasted, Two Button

Occasion: Everyday, professional

Notes: A glorious looking blue linen suit from Harrisons of Edinburgh, which Henry Herbert made for a magazine editor (and former Royal Navy officer) in London. Linen is an excellent choice for staying cool whilst looking sharp in the warmer months.  You can just see a flash of the special lining that he chose too. He also requested brace buttons, which sit discreetly inside the trouser waistband, together with a fishtail finish to the rear of the trousers. A great looking suit which sits well on his tall frame.

Woolen or Worsted: That is the Question!

There is always a question about what is the best fabric to choose for a suit. The first thing you should check for is the purity of the fabric: make sure there are no nasty man man fibres in there such as polyester. But which wool should you choose: woolen or worsted? As a rough rule of thumb, woolens can be softer and worsted sharper. The below offers a more technical glimpse into the world of woollens and worsted fabric which is hopefully useful when making the dive into bespoke suit making!

Woolens are spun from short fibres
Wortsed is spun from long fibres

Woolens are spun from coarse fibres
Wortsed is spun from fine fibres

Woolen fibres are washed and carded
Wortsed fibres are washed and combed

Woolens have a medium twists
Wortsed have a high twist

Woolens are bulky
Wortsed is smooth

Woolens tends to be heavier weight
Wortsed tends to be lighter weight

Navy birdseye suit

 

Navy birdseye suit

Birdseye suit

Navy birdseye is perhaps the ultimate cloth for a timeless and all season suit. Don’t just take our word for it, ask James Bond. A navy birdseye suit was the clothing of choice for Pierce Brosnan in Goldeneye back in 1995, and just like James Bond the cloth and the suit proved timeless, indestructible, and stylish to the end.

Birds eye is an unusual and special pattern. From a distance it appears solid but up close it creates a subtle surface full of depth without being distracting. It has more depth and a far richer effect than a solid worsted especially when you choose a dark grey or a navy fabric.

It’s a mature, traditional fabric with a traditional but timeless pattern of small circles. Bird’s Eye has a tiny dot in the centre that’s hard to see from a distance. The pattern, like the name suggests, resembles a bird’s eye and is characterised by the small pupil-like centre dot. Many people confuse the birds eye pattern with nailhead, but there is a subtle difference that definitely adds texture to plain colours – birdseye cloth has distinctive round larger dots on a diagonal layout. A navy birdseye suit like the one that Pierce Brosnan wore – is unbelievably stylish, though you hardly every see it worn anywhere these days because it seems to have fallen out of fashion with the younger crowd. Recently though it seems to be making something of a welcome comeback as men search for something traditional but slightly and subtly different.

For me navy birdseye is the ultimate traditional cloth for a timeless, all-season suit that is definitely contemporary enough to be worn today and is also durable for regular office wear. When you see someone wearing a well-cut navy birdseye suit you know that he is seasoned. Personally I love the birdseye weave. To me it gives you a mature look that is both perfect for every day wear and durable enough for a hard day in the office. The navy birdseye is one of my favourite patterns for a suit because it creates a subtle surface interest that has a great depth to it without being too distracting. It’s also a very welcome variation from the usual plainer suit cloths helping you subtly stand out from the crowd without people quite knowing why.

Will a navy birdseye suit you and your style? Of course it will.