August 23, 2010Bespoke Suit and Shirt Tailor (Savile Row, London)
Henry Herbert was extremely privileged to make the above suit: privileged on two counts in fact. The first, because the suit was created for the wedding of Ray Goold (above), a wonderful and talented musician. Ray plays with the Solent City Jazzmen in Southampton. The second, because Ray asked for an extremely rare, but special, fabric for his suit – Seersucker. We chose a seersucker fabric from Holland & Sherry. Unfortunately, the photograph may not do it justice, looking at it on a computer, as seersucker fabric is woven in such a way that it gives a glorious texture and is great, either as as suit or stand alone trousers or jacket. Richard Green for The Big Black Book (Illustration)
April 26, 2010Bespoke Suit and Shirt Tailor (Savile Row, London)
Navy birdseye is perhaps the ultimate cloth for a timeless and all season suit. Don’t just take our word for it, ask James Bond. A navy birdseye suit was the clothing of choice for Pierce Brosnan in Goldeneye back in 1995, and just like James Bond the cloth and the suit proved timeless, indestructible, and stylish to the end.
Birds eye is an unusual and special pattern. From a distance it appears solid but up close it creates a subtle surface full of depth without being distracting. It has more depth and a far richer effect than a solid worsted especially when you choose a dark grey or a navy fabric.
It’s a mature, traditional fabric with a traditional but timeless pattern of small circles. Bird’s Eye has a tiny dot in the centre that’s hard to see from a distance. The pattern, like the name suggests, resembles a bird’s eye and is characterised by the small pupil-like centre dot. Many people confuse the birds eye pattern with nailhead, but there is a subtle difference that definitely adds texture to plain colours – birdseye cloth has distinctive round larger dots on a diagonal layout. A navy birdseye suit like the one that Pierce Brosnan wore – is unbelievably stylish, though you hardly every see it worn anywhere these days because it seems to have fallen out of fashion with the younger crowd. Recently though it seems to be making something of a welcome comeback as men search for something traditional but slightly and subtly different.
For me navy birdseye is the ultimate traditional cloth for a timeless, all-season suit that is definitely contemporary enough to be worn today and is also durable for regular office wear. When you see someone wearing a well-cut navy birdseye suit you know that he is seasoned. Personally I love the birdseye weave. To me it gives you a mature look that is both perfect for every day wear and durable enough for a hard day in the office. The navy birdseye is one of my favourite patterns for a suit because it creates a subtle surface interest that has a great depth to it without being too distracting. It’s also a very welcome variation from the usual plainer suit cloths helping you subtly stand out from the crowd without people quite knowing why.
Will a navy birdseye suit you and your style? Of course it will.
March 13, 2010Bespoke Suit and Shirt Tailor (Savile Row, London)
How do we even begin to start describing this?! Well, perhaps most importantly, it was made for a great guy called Dave Philipps who is generously sporting the DJ we made for him in this photograph. After going through the initial order with Dave, he gave us some of his home farmed eggs. I would challenge anyone to compare a true organic egg to a supermarket egg – you will never want to choose the latter again. Dave wanted a special Dinner Suit for his stay at the wonderful Burgh Island hotel. He needed it in a hurry so we offered him Henry Herbert’s Express service (we charge slightly more to have a suit ready twice as quickly). Dave chose three different fabrics – a Paisley lining from Lear Browne & Dunsford in Exeter, the wool for the suit from Hield in Huddersfield and a stunning velvet trim for the top collar from Holland & Sherry, on Savile Row. You can imagine the demands in synchronising the delivery of all three different fabrics from three different mills, for an already demanding time delivery for the suit. To add to everything, Dave chose a top collar lining, which is an incredibly intricate piece of tailoring, but looks stunning on a Dinner Jacket. And, in between it all, we still managed to squeeze in a baste fitting! A very busy time making a very special suit for a very special place for a very happy (and special) customer. Phew!!
February 19, 2010Bespoke Suit and Shirt Tailor (Savile Row, London)
An extremely rare breed of suit – brown. It is made even more rare by the special velvet trim collar and made even more special by the very difficult sewing surround of the last cuff button! (The colour matches the lining). This was an incredibly difficult three-piece suit, which took Henry Herbert 37.5 hours of tailoring to complete, but well worth the toil. The fabric is a splendid Super 100’s wool from Holland & Sherry.
February 18, 2010Bespoke Suit and Shirt Tailor (Savile Row, London)
A special brown waistcoat, made even more special by the very difficult sewing surround of the last button! (The colour matches the lining). This was part of an incredibly difficult three-piece suit that took Henry Herbert 37.5 hours of tailoring to complete, but well worth the toil. The fabric is a splendid Super 100’s wool from Holland & Sherry.
February 10, 2010Bespoke Suit and Shirt Tailor (Savile Row, London)
A great looking Holland & Sherry fabric in a tailored suit Henry Herbert has just made for a young man from J.P. Morgan. The pictured suit is at its first fitting stage, or what is also known as a baste fitting. This is followed, a few weeks later, by a second fitting , or what is sometimes called a forward fitting. And a little while after that, depending on any necessary alterations, the suit will be completed after a third fitting, or what is known as a finish-bar-finish. This is all part of the bespoke suit making process. Henry Herbert Tailors cuts, makes and finishes every single suit in England.
January 27, 2010Bespoke Suit and Shirt Tailor (Savile Row, London)
Henry Herbert Tailors use the most luxurious wools in our suits and the smoothest cottons in our tailored shirts. We visit customers whenever and wherever is good for them, with our Savile Row by Scooter service. However, for those customers which prefer to meet on Savile Row, we meet customers by appointment at the Holland & Sherry showrooms. The photograph above (taken by the excellent photographer Greg Funnell for Henry Herbert) is a glimpse into one of the many cupboards of fabrics they house there. If you ever have a special or unusual fabric request, the chances are extremely high that they will have it. To have a Henry Herbert Tailors visit you, or if you wish to visit us simply call 020 7837 1452, or book a tailor here.
holland amp Archives - Bespoke Suits By Savile Row Tailors.
Henry Herbert are bespoke tailors, offering bespoke tailoring to the highest standards of Savile Row. London is the gold standard of bespoke suits. But we know it is not always easy to make appointments in a busy work week and so, if you are looking for the finest bespoke suits and bespoke shirts, try our Savile Row by Scooter visiting tailor service. Our London tailors are trained to help find your perfect style and fit, using the finest bespoke suit and shirt fabrics. Find out more about the history of bespoke tailoring.