Join the Campaign to Wear Double Breasted Suits

Double Breasted Day - the campaign to wear double breasted suits, Dec 3rd

The V-shaped man in the double-breasted suit is making a comeback, adding stylish swagger to city streets and cool tailoring to corporate offices. The double-breasted silhouettes and swooping lapels, broadened shoulders and extra chest, are once again making a resurgence. And Henry Herbert Tailors have started the campaign to start the comeback.

Each year we hold a DB-Day. The next one will be in December 2013.

HHSuits_0913-5010 HHSuits_0913-5034 HHSuits_0913-5205 Henry-Herbert-Double-Breasted-Suit

 

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From Start to Finish: A Special Request

Red tailcoat

This is hopefully a gentle journey for you to read and look through. It is one of the recent and more unusual commissions we have been asked to do. We are proud of every suit and shirt we make and as we say to all of our customers, ‘there are no rules – just preferences.’ A young gentleman in London asked us to make him a two piece tail suit for a special occasion and the photographs below are the journey we went through together with him.

1.

September 2012

He bought with him a tail coat he liked. He wanted us to model his new one on this.

This is the photograph of him wearing his ‘model’ coat.

We went through the measuring and he choose a red fabric – for both the trousers and the coat itself.

2.

After he left, we ordered the fabric. It arrived the following morning.

The fabrics we order are quick to arrive – we make our suits here (in England) and we use British fabrics.

This fabric came from Taylor & Lodge.

You can see this in the small detail on the ‘shelving’ of the fabric.

3. 

The fabric was cut and prepared for a basted fitting.

At the bastedfitting, we discuss with the customer the fit of the suit and how it can be tweaked to perfect the fit.

 4.

October 2012

The tail coat is prepared on a mannequin ready for the arrival of the customer for the basted fitting.

We wait with baited breath, watched upon by one of our customer’s overhead (a retired General holding his gun)…..

5.

November 2012

The tails are finished and ready for the customer for his special occasion.

Henry Herbert Tailors,  “At Your Service, Sir!

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The English gentleman

Bespoke suit fabric: Blue wool

Fabric source: Peebles, Scotland

Suit Cut: Slim, Single Breasted, Two button

Bespoke suit occasion: Everyday suit

Notes: A blue suit made for a young gentleman in West London.  A great hard working wool for an every day business suit – but still finely cut to offer a tailored finish.

Just when is bespoke, well, bespoke?…..

 

Just what does bespoke mean?

It is a term that our industry is constantly challenged by. To many people it can mean many different things. It can range from the absurd arguments – something being made in the Far East versus in the United Kingdom, to a battle between theorists about the number of hand stitches that go into every garment. Very respected tailors have offered their thoughts before, suggesting the word bespoke comes from the word bespoken (to be-speak your cloth).

However, a qualified tailor in China can be just as good as a tailor on Savile Row. And what if the tailor on Savile Row is Chinese? And the tailor in China is British? As strange as it may seem, it happens. Where does the argument about garments being made overseas conclude in those circumstances?

Similarly, there are tailors who insist on a minimum of five, six or even seven fittings for every suit they make. But what if the customer doesn’t need it? Surely the process is there to serve the customer, not the tailor. Similarly, what if a tailoring house has only one house style….is that really a bespoke service for the customer? There are some fabulous tailors, but they may only offer one house style cut, albeit in any size and figuration you may wish. But is that truly bespoke?

Cutting the cloth and who cuts the cloth is often the crucible of many arguments.  And what if a machine cuts the cloth from measurements the cutter has decided?  A laser machine cuts much more finely than garments which are hand cut. Hand cutting leaves lots of loose threads and room for many complaints from a customer, but some prefer it. So why not let the customer – with guidance – cut some of his own cloth. Surely a customer cutting his own cloth would be truly bespoke?

Additionally, but just as importantly, I firmly believe that a bespoke garment is not just about providing a unique pattern and size to each and every customer. It is about providing a truly bespoke service. Is  bespoke when a customer is expected to meet a tailor between 9am-5pm, Monday-Friday and at just one location: the tailor’s shop? Is it a truly bespoke service when a garment is being sent to a customer, that the customer cannot choose the exact hour and even minute they want it delivered? Should a customer not have the mobile telephone number of their tailor, so that when something does go wrong – a split hem or a loose thread – that the tailor can have it fixed in an instant for that all important meeting or cocktail party?

A truly bespoke suit or shirt can only so called, I believe, when it is complemented by a truly bespoke service.

Please do email me your thoughts at cc@henryherbert.com

Written by Charlie Baker-Collingwood, Proprietor of Henry Herbert Tailors


Spring into Summer – Summer Suits

Summer Suit fabrics to keep you cool:  lightweight wools, silks, mohair, cottons and linens. Irish linen is considered the best and the least likely to crease. All offer the opportunity to have a very sharply cut bespoke suit that will keep you cool, and smart, in the summer. This photograph is a fabulous photograph taken by The Sartorialist. The Image (C) – The Sartorialist.

 

Henry Herbert is recruiting!

Henry Herbert Tailors are looking for new Tailoring Specialists.

The team at Henry Herbert is growing. Lots of customers look to us to enable professional and high quality bespoke tailoring and now we’re looking to you to help us grow and spread our Savile Row by Scooter Service.

If you want to make measurable changes to how Savile Row tailoring is delivered  then Henry Herbert might be for you. And if you’re a talented and innovative true-believer you might be for Henry Herbert. We’re looking for clever and conscientious people to work in a supportive and diverse environment. Hint: a personality as fun as our brand is not just a plus – it’s A+.

The role of a Tailoring Specialist would involve visiting existing and new customers on a Vespa scooter in central London.

The successful candidate must have: • Outgoing, friendly personality • Fluent spoken and written English • Preferably experience in a customer service role • Ability to multi-task efficiently • High level of personal drive and sound judgment • Outstanding communication and administrative skills • Strong attention to detail • Ability to work on your own initiative • Reasonable travel time to our office in central London.

Please apply with CV and covering letter to cc@henryherbert.com

The Double-Breasted Suit

Images & Video

A British Cut

Tailor’s Notes
The V-shaped man in the double-breasted suit is making a comeback. This classic grey double-breasted suit is adding stylish swagger to city streets and cool tailoring to corporate offices. The double-breasted silhouettes, swooping lapels, broadened shoulders, and extra chest are making a resurgence.

The Construction
This suit was made and cut in England, and as much of it as possible was hand-tailored. The jacket is canvassed. A suit such as this takes 8-9 weeks to make, unless you opt for our Express Service. We have a halfway baste fitting and then a forward baste fitting before the suit is finished and delivered.

Details
The cloth is an English-made wool. The jacket has working cuffs and the buttons are made out of horn.

Find out how to order a suit

The DB is Back.

Fabric: Fine pure wool.  Fabric source: England. Cut: Double breasted. Price: Contact Henry Herbert Towers.

The Charcoal Grey Suit

Images & Video

Charcoal Sparks

Tailor’s Notes
Presenting a wardrobe cornerstone: the grey suit. A slim cut, stylish finish brings together tradition and the modernity. A grey suit offers trimness, elegance and a simple message; smart, confident, thoroughly put together.

The Construction
This suit was made and cut in England, and as much of it as possible was hand-tailored. The jacket is canvassed. A suit such as this takes 8-9 weeks to make, unless you opt for our Express Service. We have a halfway baste fitting and then a forward baste fitting before the suit is finished and delivered.

Details
The cloth is an English-made wool. The jacket has working cuffs and the buttons are made out of horn.

Find out how to order a suit

The Cowboy Cut Suit

Images & Video

Unusual Swagger

Tailor’s Notes
A very unusual suit for a young hotelier in London. The suit jacket is finely-cut and is matched with a pair of ‘boot-cut’ trousers. This is a special case, with a customer who knows exactly what he wants. The remarkable result is testament to the fact that with bespoke, there are no rules—just preferences.

The Construction
As much of the suit as possible was hand-tailored. A suit such as this takes 8-9 weeks to make, unless you opt for our Express Service. We have a halfway baste fitting and then a forward baste fitting before the suit is finished and delivered.

Details
This suit was made from a fine English wool from Holland & Sherry.

Find out how to order a suit

Country Tweed for the City….

Fabric: Lightweight tweed.

Fabric source: Edinburgh, Scotland.

Cut: Slim, Single Breasted, with double breasted waistcoat.

Occasion: City to country to weddings!

Notes: This stylish young gentleman, who divides his time between the Cotswolds and London needed a lightweight tweed from Holland & Sherry which would work well in both environments.  This suit is all about versatility and juxtaposing the city with the country. The suit offers a contemporary cut double breasted waistcoat.

Price: Contact Henry Herbert Tailors.