Tag Archives: bespoke suits london

Politicians & Suits

Tailored Suits Ed Miliband David Cameron Nick Clegg

 

IF, as it is considered, clothes make the man British politicians appear to be busy reflecting a message that contradicts the meaning of their profession. The old-fashioned, stuffy & traditional pin-stripe attire worn by generations of politicians has long been replaced with a more casual off duty approach to dressing. Although this implies unity with the people it does little in the way of earning respect for authority from the public. Whilst donning a handmade suit doesn’t instantly transform the nation’s views and opinions, wearing bespoke tailoring with confidence creates a more favourable and positive impression.

Public Engagement

Bespoke tailoring skillfully transforms body image, dressing confidence and the way in which other people perceive you. What it cannot do is alter posture, attitude and the ability to do the job. To genuinely look the part a politician must understand how to perfectly accessorise and present the bespoke suit. A handmade shirt, elegantly knotted silk tie in a refined but understated stripe design, exquisite cufflinks and handmade mirror polished shoes help to unite politician and bespoke attire so that they become sophistication personified. Without the confident attitude, street savvy mindset and charismatic personality to carry off a polished professional look a politician is simply a man in a posh suit.

As celebrities well know, to engage with an audience you must look, feel and think like a superstar. Whilst politicians are unlikely to scale such grand heights media attention is always gravitating in their direction. To appeal to the masses, in a role that should command respect, sharp and smart tailoring becomes essential workwear. We as the public, unfortunately, judge by appearance and unless politicians dress like they mean serious business we’re not interested in listening to what they have to say.

Status & Stature

Fashion and style are two independent statements that reflect an individual’s personality and appearance. In positions of power and influence it is important to present a sense of style and panache, simply because this is what we all aspire to possess. The way in which leaders dress is also reflective of the level to which the public feels valued. Scruffy dressing influences the audience to look elsewhere for direction and leadership.

Fashion is fleeting and rarely makes a lasting impression. For this reason alone bespoke tailoring remains the dressing option of choice for those individuals who want to project sophistication, charisma, power, knowledge and status – whatever the profession. Politicians like Nick Clegg and George Osbourne, for example, are trying too hard to be something they are not. Whilst a smart bespoke suit can make you look like someone who commands attention, authority and respect it is personal style that transforms perception. Today’s politicians lack the requirement of individual style and project an image that contradicts the reality. To look like a leader you need to think and act like one before slipping on a handmade suit to complete the picture.

In the political arena politicians must know their way around the fashion industry. Casual dressing should be reserved for off duty occasions when there is no camera in sight. Bespoke tailoring gives value and stature to your personality and when combined with accessories, and valuable fashion tips, it is simply the only way to go. To inspire like a true leader a politician must be prepared to stand out from the crowd.

 

Suits & Spies

 

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EVERY little boy has a spy fantasy that involves high-level espionage, fast cars and sharp bespoke suits. The James Bond influence has long inspired classic bespoke tailoring and opened the door for a host of Secret Service movies to impact on our imaginations. The most recent, Kingsman: The Secret Service, sees a suave and sophisticated Colin Firth (looking as dapper as usual), play Harry Hart (code name: Galahad) who says “the suit is the modern gentleman’s armour”.  We couldn’t agree more.

Spies, and their counterparts, the villains/criminals, are undoubtedly some of the best-dressed men in the movies. They effortlessly know how to wear a classic three-piece bespoke suit whilst brandishing a lethal weapon (which may or may not be housed inside an umbrella, another quintessential gentleman’s accessory), and dangling a damsel in distress on one arm. Stylish spies ooze sophistication, elegance and power.

Kingsman: The Secret Service

With headquarters cleverly disguised within a Savile Row tailor’s shop, the elite private team of spies battle to save the world, displaying death defying stunts, sky diving antics and striking bespoke attire along the way. The extensive bespoke wardrobe worn throughout Kingsman: The Secret Service is central to the movie’s appeal. The classic suit collection features distinctively English tailoring and styling, and brings back the double-breasted suit, a style that Henry Herbert has also championed  recently (with the Campaign to Bring Back the Double Breasted).

As movie goers we’ve become familiar with Firth, always looking impeccably attired and comfortable playing roles that require a dapper appearance. “I only really came to understand a good suit when I made A Single Man and realised that it does the work for you,” Firth has openly stated. “It affects your bearing and makes you look good.”

Worn as modern day armour by cinematic spies and secret agents, the bespoke suit has become the acceptable uniform that can also be worn in real life. Bespoke tailoring should make you look good and feel great.

Taron Egerton plays Gary “Eggsy” Unwin, a seemingly unrefined petty criminal who is recruited by Firth and painstakingly taught everything he needs to know about acceptable table manners and occasion-appropriate footwear. The elite team may look like high-end accountants but don’t be fooled because they can handle any high-octane fight without breaking a sweat or ripping a seam.

Spies With Style

  • Tinkler, Tailor, Soldier, Spy is a British espionage thriller starring Gary Oldman as George Smiley, the spy who is brought out of retirement to track down a double agent. The bespoke tailoring is civil service chic and reflective of the ‘70s. Colin Firth (yes, him again), Benedict Cumberbatch and Tom Hardy also star.
  • The Ipcress File stars Michael Caine’s skint MI5 agent Harry Palmer. The iconic wardrobe features classic ‘60’s bespoke style and distinctive thick-rimmed glasses.
  • Bond. Any and all films. So iconic is the character’s sartorial elegance and style that any actor playing the part appears believable. Bond is always impeccably dressed and ready for action or any occasion – casual or formal. This super spy wears black tie like no one else, and we applaud his ability to stay immaculate in any situation.

Besides the gadgets and cars, all you need is a handmade suit that flatters your physique, enhances your appearance and creates the allure of mystery. So who wants to play James Bond in real life?

One For The Road: Cycling & Suits

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WITH an increase in the number of businessmen taking to the road on two wheels, bespoke tailoring has adapted to suit. This time, we are not talking about scooters (on which Henry Herbert tailors can often be found!), but the rise and rise of the bicycle commute.  However, looking fashionable without appearing flustered on a bike requires some sharp tailoring and clever details. The modern businessman can now opt for a suave and sophisticated handmade suit that can be tweaked to take them straight from home to the boardroom, via the cycle path.

Bespoke tailoring is all about the details. To travel in style fabric, function, fit need to be considered, and it is possible look like a cool cyclist without layering on the lycra. Cutting a dash in a smart bespoke suit that has been made with cycling in mind is the practical, sensible and logical (not to mention time-saving) choice for power dressing professionals and elegant executives.

What to look for:

The perfect cycling business suit provides comfort and flexible dressing without any compromise on classic bespoke tailoring or style. An active lifestyle requires a suit that incorporates practical features like visibility and shape retention for wear and tear on the road.

  • Choose a stain resistant fabric that is breathable and suitable for extreme weather conditions, and a cut that allows for freedom of movement and minimal creasing.
  • Make a few adjustments by lowering the jacket armhole to enable extra arm reach and additional shoulder support for riding comfort.
  • Pick a contemporary narrow trouser fit for safe cycling. A little extra padded support in the seat and crotch ensures a comfortable ride in the saddle. For additional comfort wear the trousers over padded shorts (get your lycra fix underneath!).
  • Select high visibility lining in a striking colour. Vibrant yellow reflects the Tour de France style influence and gives the bespoke suit a sharp, modern designer edge. For ease of physical movement and comfort opt for a jacket that is half lined, and keep your undercollar melton in sync with lining – so that when you flip up your collar to protect against windchill, the bright lining will show and allow for extra visibility to other road users.

Pay attention to the details:

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The ultimate cycle friendly bespoke suit takes you from A to B without any major dressing (or undressing) adjustments along the way. You will arrive at the office ready to do business.

  • Keep your cool by adding a sailor’s tab collar (see an example here) that can be adjusted according to temperature and weather conditions. This also provides wind protection around the neck and chest.
  • Add detachable fluorescent pocket flaps to increase visibility on the road.
  • Choose smart high-vis trouser turn ups to complement and finish the elegant cut of the bespoke suit.

Rather like the compact, quick-change folding bike, the bespoke suit offers a practical solution to dressing the part ready for work and play.  Choose durable and versatile fabric and distinctive details to create the perfect bespoke suit for business and leisure. Team with a complementary cycle helmet and leave the spare set of clothes at home. Say goodbye to lycra and hello to the modern fitness wardrobe for the busy executive.

 

The Brown Suit

Images & Video

You Can Bet on Brown

Tailor’s Notes
It used to be a fashion commandment: “No brown in town.” Thus, businessmen would robotically wear grey or navy every day. Well, that rule, like a lot of rules, has been parcelled up and tossed out the office window. And today, a suit in tobacco, copper, or coffee has gone from ‘kind of stuffy’ to ‘sharp and modern’.

The Construction
This suit was made and cut in England, and as much of it as possible was hand-tailored. The jacket is canvassed. A suit such as this takes 8-9 weeks to make, unless you opt for our Express Service. We have a halfway baste fitting and then a forward baste fitting before the suit is finished and delivered.

Details
The cloth is an English-made wool. The jacket has working cuffs and the buttons are made out of horn.

Find out how to order a suit

A special Henry Herbert shirt

Special Bespoke Shirt Collar Trim

A special shirt we have made for the Managing Director of a large media firm. The fabric is from Acorn, in Lancashire, and is made of an excellent English cotton. The shirt is made even more unusual by the special collar trim and button sewing surround. Every part of this shirt was handmade, in London. Come and visit us (or we can visit you) to find out more about the different processes involved in making your handmade, bespoke shirt.