‘Serge le Temoin de Playboy’ & Co. Sartorial elegance in Congo

1 Serge le Temoin de Playboy & Co. Sartorial elegance in Congo

2 Serge le Temoin de Playboy & Co. Sartorial elegance in Congo

I have mentioned this fascinating story before, but it is so gripping, it is worth talking about it again! SAPE stands for “Societe des Ambianceurs et Personnes Elegantes” which translates as the “society of atmosphere setters and elegant people“. Its members put fashion above all the other issues a developing country like Congo is facing right now.

The origins of La SAPE can be traced back to when the first French colonists arrived. They brought with them their famous fashion sense and inspired the locals who regarded the white man as far more elegant and educated than they were. In 1922 Andre Bernard Matsoua was the first local who traveled to Paris and came back dressed as a true French gentleman.

Since then, members of “La Societe des Ambianceurs et Personnes Elegantes” have been trying to get their hands on the newest, most expensive pieces of designer clothes that appear in Europe. There are some luxury shops in Brazzaville and Kinshasa, but most “sapeurs” prefer to get them directly from the Old Continent. This is actually every member’s dream, to travel to Paris and get their hands on killer wardrobes at the source.

Sapeurs spend thousands of dollars on suits, shirts, shoes and accessories, but this doesn’t mean they’re rich. In a country where the average salary is somewhere around $300/month, most of these guys don’t even have a job. Most of them lend their clothes for a living (renting a designer suit costs about $25/day), while those who travel to Europe bring the latest designer labels and sell them for a small profit.

All members of La SAPE have unique styles and crazy names: ‘Parfait le Bodeur‘, ‘Serge le Temoin de Playboy‘, ‘Baleine Sarkozy‘ or ‘Christian Dior‘. They live for fashion and feed off the attention they get when parading on the dusty streets of Brazzaville. The photos below are part of Francesco Giusti‘s La SAPE Collection, which recently won him an award for photography. They really do capture the charm of these special sapeurs. There is a beauitfully presenetd musical photo montage which tells the story too.

3 Serge le Temoin de Playboy & Co. Sartorial elegance in Congo

4 Serge le Temoin de Playboy & Co. Sartorial elegance in Congo

5 Serge le Temoin de Playboy & Co. Sartorial elegance in Congo

6 Serge le Temoin de Playboy & Co. Sartorial elegance in Congo

7 Serge le Temoin de Playboy & Co. Sartorial elegance in Congo

9 Serge le Temoin de Playboy & Co. Sartorial elegance in Congo

Look Twice!

Look Twice Look Twice!

The most extraordinarily fabric yet that Henry Herbert has been involved with! At first glance, it looks like a normal pin stripe suit fabric, the epitome of the classic, English City suit. But look twice and you will actually find the pin stripe is not a stripe at all – it is the customer’s initials woven so finely, in perfectly symmetrical lines, that they appear as the classic English pin stripe. An extraordinarily personal detail for the customer.

The Cowboy Cut – Boot Length Trousers!

Henry Herbert Tailors Bespoke Suits Tailored Suits The Cowboy Cut   Boot Length Trousers!A very unusal but special suit for a young hotelier in London. The bespoke tailored suit is made from a fine English wool from Holland & Sherry. As you may notice the suit jacket is finely cut and sits with a pair of ‘boot cut’ trousers. This is a special customer who knows exactly what he wants and is testament to the fact that with bespoke there are no rules left any more, merely preferences.

Dressed to Thrill by Henry Herbert Tailors

Bespoke Dinner Suit by Savile Row Tailors Henry Herbert Tailors Dressed to Thrill by Henry Herbert TailorsA sharply cut dinner suit made by Henry Herbert Tailors. The classically styled jacket is complemented by silk lapels and the trousers by a silk trim. The wool is a fine, high twist English cloth and it may even give James Bond a run for his money.

A French wedding with an Ooh La La Suit!

Wedding Suit Tailored Wedding Suits Henry Herbert Tailors Savile Row copy copy A French wedding with an Ooh La La Suit!

Porter A French wedding with an Ooh La La Suit!Two photographs from the wedding of a young man who married in the south west of France. It was a summer wedding, so we decided upon a light weight and very fine Super 130′s wool from Thomas Fischer in Huddersfield for this young man’s weeding suit. Hopefully, the top photograph shows the elegance of the slim cut suit and the lower photograph the finesse of this excellent Huddersfield cloth. The three button suit was complemented by a brilliant white bespoke shirt and, all put together, made for a sharp looking wedding suit. The suit and cloth chosen also allow for the suit to be worn on future occasions too and will serve as a great suit for many years to come.

How do they measure up?

Tailored Suits Ed Miliband David Cameron Nick Clegg1 How do they measure up?

Three new political leaders displaying three approaches to wearing a suit. David Cameron, leader of the Conservatives, enjoys flared trousers. Nick Clegg, leader of the Liberal Democrats, likes his slanted pockets on his jackets. Ed Miliband, leader of the Labour party, presents polished white shirt cuffs which are (correctly) longer than his suit sleeves. Notably, all three wear single breasted, two button suits – the choice of style for being a political leader.

Ten Questions to Ask You & Your Tailor

Having a bespoke suit or bespoke shirt made can be an intimidating experience. Hopefully these ten tips from Henry Herbert Tailors will guide you through the minefield:

1. Visit as many tailors as you like. It is a relationship that must be comfortable for you.

2. Familiarise yourself with the different styles and choices available to you.

3. Be advised by a tailor, not pressured.

4. Have an idea of the colour and the cloth you are looking for. It will narrow down the vast selection available to you.

5. It is your bespoke suit (or shirt). Remember there are no wrong answers, merely preferences.

6. A good tailor will comfort you, not condescend you.

7. Expect at least a couple of fittings and at least as many months to perfect your first order.

8. All good suits and shirts should be tailored in England using local cloths.

9. Find the budget that is right for you and make sure final prices are clearly given to you (it is normal for bespoke tailors not to include VAT in their final prices).

10. Enjoy wearing it – every handmade suit and shirt will have its own characteristics.

To book your Henry Herbert Tailor, click here.

Glorious Seersucker and All That Jazz

DSC 07121 Glorious Seersucker and All That Jazz

Henry Herbert was extremely privileged to make the above suit: privileged on two counts in fact. The first, because the suit was created for the wedding of Ray Goold (above), a wonderful and talented musician. Ray plays with the Solent City Jazzmen in Southampton. The second, because Ray asked for an extremely rare, but special, fabric for his suit – Seersucker. We chose a seersucker fabric from Holland & Sherry. Unfortunately, the photograph may not do it justice, looking at it on a computer, as seersucker fabric is woven in such a way that it gives a glorious looking wrinkled appearance in places and is great, either as as suit or stand alone trousers or jacket.

Beat the blues, choose blue!

matthew waite 28 Beat the blues, choose blue!

A terrific looking blue wool suit made by Henry Herbert Tailors, accompanied by smartly polished shoes. A great example of how striking this colour fabric can look in a well cut suit. You can also see a video of a blue Henry Herbert suit here. I am very grateful to the young lady who took this photograph, Petra Exton.

Video: Time for a Three Piece Suit!

The three piece suit is a fabulous, but intricate creation. You may imagine a variety of people wearing them in a a vrierty of different environments – but can you imagine yourself in one? Perhaps you should start! A well cut three piece suit is as comfortable in the city today as it is in the country and every well dressed gentleman should have one. This short video by Henry Herbert Tailors shows you one of our carefully crafted three piece suits, using a Tweed fabric from an English mill.

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