Tag Archives: Bespoke Suits

Suits & Spies

 

static1.squarespace Suits & Spies

EVERY little boy has a spy fantasy that involves high-level espionage, fast cars and sharp bespoke suits. The James Bond influence has long inspired classic bespoke tailoring and opened the door for a host of Secret Service movies to impact on our imaginations. The most recent, Kingsman: The Secret Service, sees a suave and sophisticated Colin Firth (looking as dapper as usual), play Harry Hart (code name: Galahad) who says “the suit is the modern gentleman’s armour”.  We couldn’t agree more.

Spies, and their counterparts, the villains/criminals, are undoubtedly some of the best-dressed men in the movies. They effortlessly know how to wear a classic three-piece bespoke suit whilst brandishing a lethal weapon (which may or may not be housed inside an umbrella, another quintessential gentleman’s accessory), and dangling a damsel in distress on one arm. Stylish spies ooze sophistication, elegance and power.

Kingsman: The Secret Service

With headquarters cleverly disguised within a Savile Row tailor’s shop, the elite private team of spies battle to save the world, displaying death defying stunts, sky diving antics and striking bespoke attire along the way. The extensive bespoke wardrobe worn throughout Kingsman: The Secret Service is central to the movie’s appeal. The classic suit collection features distinctively English tailoring and styling, and brings back the double-breasted suit, a style that Henry Herbert has also championed  recently (with the Campaign to Bring Back the Double Breasted).

As movie goers we’ve become familiar with Firth, always looking impeccably attired and comfortable playing roles that require a dapper appearance. “I only really came to understand a good suit when I made A Single Man and realised that it does the work for you,” Firth has openly stated. “It affects your bearing and makes you look good.”

Worn as modern day armour by cinematic spies and secret agents, the bespoke suit has become the acceptable uniform that can also be worn in real life. Bespoke tailoring should make you look good and feel great.

Taron Egerton plays Gary “Eggsy” Unwin, a seemingly unrefined petty criminal who is recruited by Firth and painstakingly taught everything he needs to know about acceptable table manners and occasion-appropriate footwear. The elite team may look like high-end accountants but don’t be fooled because they can handle any high-octane fight without breaking a sweat or ripping a seam.

Spies With Style

  • Tinkler, Tailor, Soldier, Spy is a British espionage thriller starring Gary Oldman as George Smiley, the spy who is brought out of retirement to track down a double agent. The bespoke tailoring is civil service chic and reflective of the ‘70s. Colin Firth (yes, him again), Benedict Cumberbatch and Tom Hardy also star.
  • The Ipcress File stars Michael Caine’s skint MI5 agent Harry Palmer. The iconic wardrobe features classic ‘60’s bespoke style and distinctive thick-rimmed glasses.
  • Bond. Any and all films. So iconic is the character’s sartorial elegance and style that any actor playing the part appears believable. Bond is always impeccably dressed and ready for action or any occasion – casual or formal. This super spy wears black tie like no one else, and we applaud his ability to stay immaculate in any situation.

Besides the gadgets and cars, all you need is a handmade suit that flatters your physique, enhances your appearance and creates the allure of mystery. So who wants to play James Bond in real life?

The Myth & Legend of T.E. Lawrence

Te lawrence The Myth & Legend of T.E. Lawrence

THERE are many myths about T.E Lawrence. The flamboyant and controversial character that is classically portrayed by Peter O’Toole in David Lean’s film Lawrence Of Arabia was based on a British Military figure of below average height. Thomas Edward Lawrence may have been small in stature but his memory and legacy are of epic proportions.

Standing just 5’5″ tall Lawrence was very conscious of his stature and resolved to strengthen his physique and character to compensate for his lack of physical presence. The illegitimate son of Sir Thomas Robert Tighe Chapman, Lawrence was initially turned down by the army because he was too small. He would however go on to make a huge impact in the First World War. He is primarily remembered as being the British Army officer renowned for his liaison role during the Sinai and Palestine Campaign, and the Arab Revolt against Ottoman Turkish rule of 1916–18.

Personal Style

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As an officer in the British Army, Lawrence was considered scruffy and quickly earned himself the title of the ‘untidiest officer in the British Army’. His sloppy style meant that his uniform was never worn with the required amount of reverence. Instead his lack of respect for authority was openly displayed in his careless dressing. Finer details like the loose buckling of his belt, or an unbuttoned shoulder strap, allowed him to demonstrate his individuality and unorthodox approach.

Whilst a dapper bespoke suit would have immediately given his small stature defined presence Lawrence relied on his broad mind to give him the edge over his peers. He embraced other languages, culture and people and developed a keen interest in archaeology. During archeology trips to the Middle East, Lawrence would immerse himself in all aspects of Arabic culture. He would also wear native costume to identify himself with the locals and their customs. Bedouin dress of flowing robes, headdress and bare feet was the normal dress code.

Romantic Hero

t e lawrence The Myth & Legend of T.E. Lawrence

Lawrence had a clean-living lifestyle that included complete abstinence from the consumption of meat, alcohol and tobacco. He is the classic romantic military hero. Although his deeds during World War I were highlighted by war correspondents, it wasn’t until 1919 that the British liaison officer became a media celebrity. With a bounty on his head the British Army made efforts to suppress his distinctive image in order to protect him from being recognised by the Turkish troops.

Hiding his now legendary status by changing his name to John Hume Ross, Lawrence joined the ranks of the Royal Air Force, but was found out and enlisted in the Tank Corps as Thomas Edward Shaw, the name that he used until the day he died. Lawrence was a prolific writer and his published works, including The Seven Pillars of Wisdom, were attributed to Lawrence. He died in an road accident, aged 46, whilst driving one of his beloved motorcycles at maximum speed.

Today’s romantic heroes may opt for a more traditional style of bespoke tailoring. Whilst he is mostly remembered via Lawrence of Arabia’s cinematic portrayal, T.E. Lawrence clearly had his own unique sense of bespoke style. Replacing the classic bespoke suit with a flowing white Bedoiun robe Lawrence displayed his true personality and flamboyant elegance, and demonstrated that you don’t have to be tall to stand head and shoulders above everyone else.

The English gentleman

Henry Herbert Bespoke Suit Nick Cookson Suit The English gentleman

Henry Herbert Bespoke Suit Nick Cookson Suit Detail The English gentleman

Bespoke suit fabric: Blue wool

Fabric source: Peebles, Scotland

Suit Cut: Slim, Single Breasted, Two button

Bespoke suit occasion: Everyday suit

Notes: A blue suit made for a young gentleman in West London.  A great hard working wool for an every day business suit – but still finely cut to offer a tailored finish.

Video: Time for a Three Piece Suit!

The three piece suit is a fabulous, but intricate creation. You may imagine a variety of people wearing them in a a vrierty of different environments – but can you imagine yourself in one? Perhaps you should start! A well cut three piece suit is as comfortable in the city today as it is in the country and every well dressed gentleman should have one. This short video by Henry Herbert Tailors shows you one of our carefully crafted three piece suits, using a Tweed fabric from an English mill.

Video: Just what makes a good sports jacket?

The sports jacket is an essential garment for every wardrobe. It can be made from a variety of different fabrics, including linen, silk, cotton, mohair and wool. They all offer their own individual merits, but a well cut, bespoke linen sports jacket can look super sharp. A common concern is that linen can crease easily – as long as you look after the linen jacket, it will look after you. This is a short video of a bespoke sports jacket made by Henry Herbert Tailors.

Video: Bespoke Double Breasted Suit

The V-shaped, double breasted, silhouette suit has made a resurgence. The finely cut peak lapels and wrap over jacket, finished with sharp looking trousers, is making a comeback on to city streets. This is a short video of a bespoke double-breasted suit made by Henry Herbert Tailors.

Video: Bespoke Blue Suit by Henry Herbert Tailors

A short video by Henry Herbert Tailors to show the delights of a blue suit. Blue wool is an acquired taste, but it is a striking colour to choose, which can be worn professionally and socially, attracting equally strong compliments in both walks of life.  Henry Herbert makes each tailored suit using the finest English & Scottish wools…the wool in this video is from an English mill called Brook Taverner.

Henry Herbert makes Pyjamas too!

Bespoke Shirt Pyjamas Savile Row 682x1023 Henry Herbert makes Pyjamas too!

Henry Herbert has requests from all corners of the globe and every request is special and different. Pictured is a set of pyjamas that we made for a customer in Germany – a slim tab collar complemented by a super soft Egyptian cotton.

James Bond Fabric Meets Henry Herbert Tailoring

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We make a variety of suits for a variety of different budgets and try to be as accommodating as possible. But this is one very special cloth – a Super 160’s from Dormeuil. We have made it for a customer who has worked hard and is in a position to indulge himself and it is the softest and most delicate fabric we have ever worked with. We can only hope the camera shot does the fabric some justice. In case you didn’t know, Dormeuil supply the cloth for the suits in the James Bond films!

Spectacular Scottish Linen Jacket

Bespoke Linen Jacket 154x300 Spectacular Scottish Linen JacketBespoke Linen Jacket Lining 157x300 Spectacular Scottish Linen Jacket

This is a great example of how linen can work wonderfully well as weekend and casual sports jackets. This is a linen jacket that Henry Herbert made for a gentleman in the military – hence, the reason he is camera shy and wearing the dark glasses. The linen is spectacularly complemented by the lining – great looking Bengal stripe. Both the linen and the lining are from Harrisions of Edinburgh.

Wow – what a waistcoat!

Bespoke Waistcoat Wow what a waistcoat!

Bespoke Waistcoat with Bespoke Buttonhole Wow what a waistcoat!

A special brown waistcoat, made even more special by the very difficult sewing surround of the last button! (The colour matches the lining). This was part of an incredibly difficult three-piece suit that took Henry Herbert 37.5 hours of tailoring to complete, but well worth the toil. The fabric is a splendid Super 100’s wool from Holland & Sherry.